A New Orleans Cult Cocktail In the Spotlight

The Obituary has a lengthy 20th century history

Welcome to this special edition of the CulinaryWoman Reading Room. Next week, New Orleans author Sue Strachan launches her latest book, The Obituary Cocktail, part of the Iconic New Orleans Cocktails series from Louisiana State University Press. Sue and I are fellow members of Les Dames D’Escoffier and she’s a long time chronicler of the New Orleans social scene.

On Friday, July 18, Sue will be the guest of honor at a party for her book at the Garden District Book Shop. It’s not a book launch per se, but it’s a chance to greet her and sample cocktails. You can order a signed copy of her book from them. It might make a fun gift for cocktail curious family and friends.

Why she chose the Obituary

“LSU Press came to me and said, would you be interested in doing another cocktail book (she’s also the author of The Cafe Brulot) or something on New Orleans culture. They gave me a list of cocktails to choose from” and she settled on the Obituary, which includes gin, vermouth and absinthe. “You’ve got to love the name, and the more I learned about it, I love gin martinis and the kick of absinthe adds a little danger to it,” Sue says. (See her favorite recipe below.)

Where did the name come from?

Says Sue, “New Orleans has always had a very interesting relationship with death” with its tradition for jazz funerals, second line parades to honor the dead and its embrace of Halloween and All Saints Day. A death-honoring cocktail fits right in. “There is a quote about the Obituary that says, if you have too many, it will knock you off. “

A group devoted to celebrating the Obituary

In 1999, Kerri Nicole McCaffrey published The Obituary Cocktail: The Great Saloons of New Orleans. A group of imbibers decided to visit every saloon mentioned in the book, and try the Obituary and other cocktails. “They’d take the book to each saloon and have it signed. They’re still going strong, 27 years later,” Sue says.

The Obituary’s connection to New Orleans’ gay community

The Obituary dates to the 1940s, when it began to be served at Cafe Lafitte, which was known around the city as a secret hangout for the gay community. Located inside Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, Cafe Lafitte subsequently moved to another location at the end of the block, where it jokingly called itself Cafe Lafitte in Exile.

Says Sue, “Back then, there wasn’t such a thing as a gay bar. It was illegal. There were laws on the books about immoral gatherings. But certain places were gay friendly.” The premises has three owners — “one was straight, one was out and one you can figure out was gay.”

Cafe Lafitte became a popular spot for notables like Gore Vidal and Tennessee Williams (I first visited on a Williams walking tour) and restaurateur Ella Brennan, who said, “Most girls went to finishing school. I went to Cafe Lafitte.” Visiting celebrities also dropped in, as did debutantes, revelers and anyone looking for an after hours spot.

Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop is still there, as is Cafe Lafitte, which is believed to be the country’s oldest continuously operating gay bar. It is open 24 hours a day and is a Pride celebration headquarters.

A collection of death-themed cocktails

Along with multiple recipes for the Obituary, the book also includes a selection of cocktails with morbid names. They include the Corpse Reviver, the Corpse Bride, Death in the Afternoon, Esprit de Corpse, Kill Devil Cocktail, The Resurrection, Vampire’s Kiss, and the Zombie, which is the death-related equivalent of a Hurricane. I have never tasted any of them, but I have had a Detroit creation called the Last Word.

Sue’s favorite recipe

After trying the Obituary across New Orleans — she’s lost count how many — Sue settled on her favorite recipe. Four others are listed in the book. To be honest, as a tea-totaler, I think even one sip would send me under. But if you mix one up, please let me know what you think. (Feel free to substitute your favorite liquors.)

Obituary Cocktail

Courtesy of James O’Donnell, Fives Bar, New Orleans

2 1/4 ounces Sipsmith London Dry Gin

3/4 ounce La Quintinye Dry Vermouth

5-6 dashes Jade Nouvelle-Orleans Absinthe

Lemon twist

Combine the first three ingredients in a mixing glass. Add ice to about halfway. Stir well, then strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a lemon twist. (Note: it is important to add the ice after the liquor so the flavors will meld and the ice will dilute somewhat.)

When James makes the drink, he spritzes absinthe over the top of the finished cocktail. Note: if you have trouble sourcing absinthe, you can swap in herbsaint, an anise-flavored liquer.