In all my years of fine dining, the hardest reservations to snag were between 7 p.m. and 9 p.m. In Manhattan, especially, nobody wanted a “loser time” at 5 p.m. or 6 p.m.; those were for tourists and people who didn’t have any pull.
There have long been jokes about “early bird specials” in places like Florida and Arizona that started around 4 p.m., with…
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