McDonald's Pulls A 180 Turn With The Big Arch

Out of step - or chasing an audience?

Happy Labor Day Weekend! Happy September! Welcome to new readers and thank you to all our returning subscribers. I hope you’re finding some time to relax this holiday, because we’re in for a busy fall. Students are back at the University of Michigan here in Ann Arbor, and Michigan played its first football game of the season on Saturday (did Fresno State really have a chance?) New cookbooks are stacking up for release over the coming weeks.

Later this month, I plan to hop across the Canadian border for a quick trip, and I will fit in some food research. Now, I have even more reason to visit.

Why Is McDonald’s Flipping Its Biggest Burger Yet?

Last week, McDonald’s chose Canada to test its biggest burger yet. The Big Arch, which rolled out in test markets, went on sale across Canada.

“The Big Arch was designed as McDonald’s response to guests' desire for a burger that satisfies the extra hungry,” McDonald’s Canada declared. The burger includes two quarter pound, 100% Canadian beef patties (McDonald’s regularly stresses the fact that its meat comes from Canada) “perfectly layered with three slices of white processed cheese, crispy onions, slivered onions, pickles, lettuce, and our new, tangy and delicious Big Arch sauce—perfect for those big cravings.”

The Big Arch is a response to customer demand, the fast food chain says. “We have heard our guests loud and clear and understand they are looking for a bigger, burger on our menu, and we are excited to bring this new global menu item to Canadians,” said Alyssa Buetikofer, Chief Marketing Officer at McDonald’s Canada.

The company hinted that it would even deploy the Hamburglar, its 1990s TV commercial character, to promote the sandwich. (The Burglar seems to be enjoying a renaissance. If you watch Emily In Paris on Netflix, you noted the Hamburglar reference in a Season 4 episode.)

All this is a complete 180 degree turn for the chain in a very short period of time. Only four years ago, McDonald’s was singing a different tune, and it wasn’t dut-dut-dut-DAT-dah.

A failed attempt at plant-based offerings

In 2020, McDonald’s said that it was planning to roll out plant-based options across its lineup. It was going to offer non-meat alternatives at all times of day, including breakfast, chicken substitutes, and burgers. The ingredients would come from Beyond Meat, which was supposed to be McDonald’s partner in the plant-based push.

The announcement followed its test in Canada, and a few U.S. cities, of the McPlant burger. In 2020, I drove to St. Thomas, Ontario, about 90 minutes from Ann Arbor, to try one out.

The P.L.T. (for plant-based, lettuce and tomato) came in a small cardboard box, printed with the McDonald’s arches, a red Canadian maple leaf, and two green leaves. It had a patty about the size of the classic McDonald’s cheeseburger, lettuce and tomato, plus a slice of cheese, onions that I left off, pickles, catsup, mustard and mayo.

The P.L.T. had a little bit of charred meat flavor, but it wasn’t diet food by any stretch. It had 460 calories and 25 grams of fat, along with 42 grams of carbohydrates, 17 grams of protein and 920 milligrams of sodium. However, it was applauded as a step forward by those who track aspects of climate change.

Going against the grain

The McPlant, in its time, seemed in step with where food trends were headed - even a little late.

Around the world, diners from all kinds of backgrounds have become more aware of nutrition. If you dine at IKEA, you are used to seeing its plant-based meatballs and other non-meat menu items. It says the plant balls have 4 percent of the carbon footprint of a beef meatball.

In Britain, especially, vegetarian and vegan preferences have become visible (think Veganuary). There’s a growing awareness of the role that beef production plays in greenhouse gas emissions.

While faux meat hasn’t been the success its producers hoped, a number of consumers have shown an interest in trying to eat healthier most of the time.

Beyond that, consumers in the United States and elsewhere have been coping with inflation. Grocery prices have risen 25 percent in the past four years, according to the Federal Reserve, and menu prices have gone up even more.

In recent times, food chains raised prices so much that they were approaching fast casual level, which caused an alarming drop in business. To combat that, there’s been a flurry of deals during the summer at the big chains, including McDonald’s, as I wrote for Food & Wine.

That attempt to seem economical makes the timing of the Big Arch puzzling. In Canada, a Big Arch meal with fries and a drink costs $12, or the equivalent of $9 U.S. But as a Canadian friend once said to me, “We don’t pay in American dollars.” Twelve dollars might be the top of someone’s lunch budget, especially when belts are tight.

The target Big Arch consumer

The Big Arch clocks in at 1,030 calories. It has 66 grams of fat, 58 grams of carbos, 52 grams of protein, and a whopping 1,980 grams of sodium.

That’s about half the recommended Canadian daily calorie value, so you aren’t tipping the scales completely. But it’s 88 percent of the daily value for fat, and 86 percent of the sodium recommendation.

My first thought was that it’s for customers who already eat generous portions and do not keep an eye on calories or fat. It might appeal to college students as fuel after drinking. Or, to someone who does physical work and needs a caloric boost.

Even though the meat adds up to eight ounces, pre-cooked, that isn’t enormously large. It’s the size of a top-of-the line sandwich that you might find at a burger-focused chain or sit down restaurant.

Five Guys’ default cheeseburger is a generous offering, while Red Robin is selling a Gold Medal burger with three patties, three layers of cheese, Red’s relish, mayo, pickles, yellow onion, lettuce and tomato.

“Go for the glory – this burger weighs as much as an Olympic Gold Medal,” Red Robin says.

As a CW reader pointed out, if you are eating one meal a day, or you are fasting for part of the day, the Big Arch might suit you just fine.

McDonald’s has never shied away from experimentation. It has attempted numerous pricy burgers, such as its Signature line and the McDLT. Consumers around the world have always gotten items tailored to local tests that Americans never see.

The novelty factor of the Big Arch is sure to draw in some diners to try one, as I did with the McPlant. As the Big Arch goes forward to the north, we’ll find out whether it gravitates to America or detours to the Boulevard of Discontinued Items.

Shake Shack Shutters Some Shacks

Speaking of burgers, over the past few years, Shake Shack has been a darling of the fast casual world. It grew from its original hot dog stand in New York’s Madison Square Park in 2001 to nearly 400 locations around the world. Consumers were receptive to its tasty sandwiches and decadent shakes, while its competitors - including McDonald’s - stretched to mimic its success.

But the pandemic prompted a shake-out for many chains and Shake Shack is not alone. According to Restaurant Business, Shake Shack is closing nine locations in California, Ohio and Texas.

In a filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission, Shake Shack blamed “changes in the trade area” and cannibalization from other Shake Shakes, in other words, too many shacks.

“These Shacks are not projected to provide acceptable returns in the foreseeable future,” the filing said.

The “changes in the trade area” most likely refers to California’s minimum wage law, which requires fast food employees to be paid $20 an hour. That’s prompted a series of restaurants to close Calfornia locations, including fish taco seller Rubio’s and Arby’s.

Shake Shack had aggressive expansion plans for 2024. It has opened 18 new company-operated outlets so far this year, and was aiming to add 40 for the year. Its 2025 plans are yet to be announced.

Farewell to A Saint Louis Fixture

I’ve made a number of trips to St. Louis over the years. My aunt and uncle had property there, and my grandparents are buried in Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery. On one of my trips, I visited one of the Lou’s culinary landmarks: Ted Drewes Frozen Custard.

The parking lot was nearly full when I arrived on a steamy summer night, but I nabbed a spot and got in line at one of the multiple takeout windows. When my turn came, I ordered a s’mores sundae with marshmallow and chocolate. I joined other diners in using my car’s roof as a table top and I was glad to sample a sweet legend.

Ted Drewes was founded in Florida in 1929 by Ted Drewes Sr., who subsequently began opening stores in his home town. Using the motto, “Our Business is Service,” Ted Drewes essentially settled on two locations, each specializing in sundaes, concretes (a thick milkshake), malts, floats and shakes.

Four generations of the family have since been involved in Ted Drewes. Last week, Ted’s son, Ted Jr., died at age 96. Not only did he keep his dad’s business alive, he continued its tradition of selling Christmas trees, which were originally an effort to generate business in winter months.

“Ted loved the city that he called home his entire life,” his family said. “He will forever be remembered for his unwavering love for his faith, family, and city. Ted’s legacy will live on through the memories shared over cones and cups, a symbol of warmth and tradition that will continue to bring joy to generations to come.”

A Quiet Departure In Paris

Dominique Crenn is one of San Francisco’s best-known chefs. Born in France, she is the only woman chef to have one three Michelin stars for her flagship restauarnat, Atelier Crenn. So, she drew attention when she decided she wanted a presence in her home country.

Golden Poppy, named after California’s state flower, opened on the ground floor of La Fantaisie, a hotel in Paris’ 9th Arrondissement, at the end of June 2023. It was hailed by American media outlets, including Town & Country, Eater Paris and Conde Nast Traveler. Michelin added it to its list of Paris restaurants.

But it apparently that flurry did not generate enough business. According to SF Gate, Golden Poppy closed this summer.

SF Gate contends that Crenn was fuzzy about the circumstances. “A week before closing, the restaurant posted a photo to Instagram showing Crenn in the kitchen, with a caption noting she was ‘crafting delight, ensuring your time here is just right,’” the publication wrote.

A spokesperson for Crenn maintained Golden Poppy was supposed to be a temporary, year-long presence, although SF Gate says that was not noted in the original publicity blast.

Now, Golden Poppy has been replaced by a more-traditional French bistro, simply called, Restaurant. Crenn still has her collection of San Francisco spots. Under Golden Poppy, her website reads, “Our next global pop up is coming soon.”

Keeping Up With CulinaryWoman

It’s always fun when fellow writers ask me to weigh in on a topic. Last week, I was able to add dishwashing liquid expert to my resume. Kris Osborne included me in this round up for Simply Recipes. It was interesting to see that we all named the same product.

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There won’t be a Red Beans & Advice tomorrow for paid subscribers, since it’s Labor Day. But, I’ll see everyone next week. Have a great holiday.