Some Places Just Have It Figured Out

Why these new restaurants are hits from the start

I set up a coffee date this week with a new acquaintance who asked that we meet on her side of town. I suggested Socotra Coffeehouse, the Yemeni-owned shop which I wrote about recently for The Takeout. I was early, so I ordered my non-caffeinated qishr, a croissant and some maamoul date cookies, and grabbed a seat.

Within a few minutes, every table aroun…