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Maxine’s Journey Through Food
This has been a tough couple of months for my family. As I mentioned in December, my sister-in-law Lisa Barry died unexpectedly on Nov. 30. Last week, we lost our beloved godmother and honorary aunt, Maxine Clapper.
Where Lisa died far too young, just 62, Maxine had a long life, lasting until two weeks shy of her 94th birthday. She met our mother Bonny Maynard in 1947, and was a presence from my birth and that of my brother Frank. She spent her final years in my home, and I spoke with her one last time just hours before she died.
If my mother was the executive chef of our family, Maxine was the sous chef - often literally. She cleaned strawberries with surgical expertise, no surprise, since she was a medical researcher at the University of Michigan. (She is second from the left in the photo above.)
We looked on with admiration as she peeled an apple in one unending strand. I could give her a paring knife and any vegetable and know the prep would be perfect.
But along with her precision, Maxine had a surprisingly adventuresome appetite. She was happy to dine out at all manner of places, whether in New York City at Cafe Boulud, in Dearborn, Mich., at James Beard Award winner Al-Ameer, or her regular rotation of restaurants in Ann Arbor.
I’ll return to my usual food business coverage next week. But today, come along and enjoy some of Maxine’s favorites.
Breakfast: Nick’s House of Pancakes
For years before my mother died, our family had a late Sunday breakfast at Nick’s, on Ann Arbor’s south side. Nick Panos is a member of a big, welcoming Greek restaurant family, and has helped me with my stories through the years.
Maxine and I continued the Nick’s tradition until the pandemic made it more challenging.
Her order was nearly always the same: coffee, scrambled eggs and a fat slice of ham. If she was hungry, she’d polish it all off; later, it became two meals.
On weekdays, Maxine’s love of the pecan raisin bread from Zingerman’s Bakehouse was legendary. She probably went through 150 loaves in the past three years, eating two slices with orange juice and coffee every single day.
That bread has unicorn status in these parts, and I often needed to try two or three sources across town before I nabbed a loaf. But, it’s great, hearty bread and the nuts and fruit gave her energy.
Lunch: Knight’s Steakhouse
Knight’s, owned by another one of our restaurant families, is a townie place with decor that echoes a 1950s rec room. Maxine liked to settle into a booth and dig into the specialty: prime rib. I eat red meat maybe once a month, and I could only look on in awe as Maxine easily polished off a 12 ounce portion.
Once, when she was not as hungry, she ordered a hamburger without a bun. That’s exactly what arrived: a burger on a big plate, no chips, pickle or even garnish. The kitchen took her order too literally, and we exploded in gales of laughter.
Dinner: Zingerman’s Deli and The Roadhouse
My brother and his family are big fans of the Deli. But pre-Covid, it could be a little difficult for an elderly person to maneuver. We walked Maxine to a table, which she guarded while we stood in line (I talk about the legend of The Line in my upcoming book).
When dining at the Roadhouse, Maxine was interested in one thing: sweet potato fries. Before they became a ubiquitous menu item, the Roadhouse introduced us to fat, freshly cut spears that are a meal in themselves.
When we ordered a basket for the table, the basket usually stalled at her seat. “Did you want some of these?” she’d innocently ask, happily noshing.
Dessert: The Washtenaw Dairy
Throughout my childhood, Sundays in winter meant an ice skating trip, followed by a cone at the Washtenaw Dairy. It has been in business since 1934, and everyone goes there for ice cream and donuts.
Our ritual got a tweak the past few years. During the summer months, I would park my Prius out front and run in for kiddie sized waffle cones (generous, and a bargain at $3).
I constantly switch up flavors, but Maxine always wanted butter pecan. She would methodically and completely eat every bite, in the same fashion as her vegetable prep technique.
Other Experiments In Dining
Despite Maxine’s regular places, I could convince her to try different cuisines on occasion. My friend Luke Song and I scored a success when we took her Al-Ameer for a Middle Eastern feast that covered the table. You can see Luke explaining the cuisine, above.
Luke gifted her with a box of baklava and other treats from Shatila, and in her analytic way, she scrutinized each variety. With her love of nuts, the box eventually winnowed down.
The pandemic and Maxine’s diminished mobility dampened our ability to eat out as much since 2020.
But thanks to carry out, I introduced her to banh mi and pho from Ginger Deli, Indian food from Aroma and ribs from AB’s Amazing Ribs and Sauce. Maxine sampled many delicious dishes in her lifetime, and left us sweet memories.
You can read more about Maxine in my obituary. We will be sending her off on Monday with much love.
Stanley Tucci Returns
Maxine and I loved watching the first season of Searching for Italy when it aired on CNN last year. The show brought back memories of the family trip we took there when I was in high school. I saved my DVR recordings and we saw it several times.
Last week, CNN announced that Season 2 of Searching for Italy will begin airing on March 13.
In his recent book, Stanley revealed that he had trouble enjoying many of the dishes highlighted in the first season because of the after effects of cancer. Now that he has healed, hopefully the second season will be more flavorful for him.
A New Take On Black And White Cookies
Nearly four years ago, I paid a last visit to Glaser’s Bake Shop on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. It was known as the birthplace of the black and white cookie, which has a cake-like base and equal portions of chocolate and vanilla icing.
Sadly, Glaser’s is gone, but the neighborhood is getting a new bakery, with a new take on black and whites.
Breads Bakery, which has several NYC locations, plans to offer a cookie with a flaky laminated dough, which Gothamist says is like a croissant. A vanilla-bean glaze creates the white side, and the black side gets its color from dark cocoa powder. There are also chocolate chips in the cookie.
The updated black and white will only be available on the UES, as a shout out to Glaser’s.
It’s always risky to mess with a well-known form. A bakery in Paris recently introduced croissants that were straight up and down, like breadsticks, rather than the familiar tri-corn shape. I want a croissant that looks like a croissant.
But it’s good to see a nod to tradition. If you try the Breads black and white, let me know what you think.
Keeping Up With CulinaryWoman
Last Friday, I got a note from my publisher: copies of Satisfaction Guaranteed have arrived at the warehouse! That’s a huge relief, because publishers of all sizes have run into supply problems.
Remember to send me your receipt if you pre-order a copy, whether from a big book seller or your favorite indie shop. Feb. 22 is now less than a month away.
Events like the one above are listed on my website and the CulinaryWoman Facebook page.
You can find me at CulinaryWoman at gmail dot com. I’m @michelinemaynard on Instagram and CulinaryWoman on TikTok and Twitter. Check out the CulinaryWoman podcast, too.
Please stay healthy. Several of my friends recently contracted Covid despite being boosted, but vaccines still offer enormous protection.
I’ll see you next Sunday, when you’ll learn about our next giveaway. (Why not become a paid subscriber between now and then?) Have a good week.
So sorry to hear about Maxine. What a wonderful part of the family. I think that next time I am up that way we should go out and have an adventurous meal in her honor. Without Maxine, your Mom and you I would have never (and still not) been to a tigers game or had my first McDonalds. I still say that I haven't been to the "New" Tiger Stadium. Good memories. I am sorry I didn't learn to ice skate like you did though but I went with you anyway. My mom, Karin and I send our best wishes. With Karin commenting on the very nice obituary. I will be up north late April if all looks ok. Gail
May God bless and cherish his new angel, your beautiful godmother Maxine, and may Maxine's memory be a blessing.