Illness Is Dogging The Food World
When I make my weekend plans, I look for windows of time when I can swing by some of my favorite places, whether for a quick hello or a meal.
About 10 days ago, I was hoping to drop into the High Hat Cafe, when I spotted this notice on their Instagram account.
The High Hat was closing for several days because its staff was sick with colds, the flu, and I suspect some allergy attacks like the one I recently suffered. Call ins were leaving it short staffed, so it was taking a short weekend break to let people get healthy.
I thought that was smart: why wear out the people who were healthy enough to work, and risk long wait times for customers? The cafe was back in business, and bustling, by Monday.
Along with seasonal illnesses, Covid continues to damage the industry in a number of ways. One of them is the lingering impact of Long Covid.
A profound sensory loss
As I’m sure you know, a number of people afflicted with Covid-19 suffer from after effects for months and now even years.
Last week, Civil Eats reported on a phenomenon called parosmia, or the distorted sense of smell. It’s well-known that Covid sufferers can temporarily lose their sense of taste and smell. Scientists have learned that when it returns, the senses can be altered.
That is distressing for people in the food business for whom the ability to detect aromas and flavors is of paramount importance. It’s crucial for home cooks and diners, too, especially if you are making meals for other people.
According to Civil Eats, clinics around the U.S. are focused on helping patients manage and recover from long COVID through specified treatment and support. However, there is no definitive treatment yet for COVID-induced parosmia or olfactory dysfunction.
Has parosmia happened to you? Please share your experience.
A different attitude toward illness
The long battle with Covid has changed the tolerance that many employers, co-workers and consumers previously displayed in dealing with people who come in sick.
Pre Covid, many Americans were determined to power through illnesses, especially those with inadequate health care coverage or who worked in competitive businesses. You’ve all heard ailing broadcasters whose voices sounded like hell, but who refused to give up their air time.
Back then, it was commonplace for colds and flu to spread from employee to employee, from server or sales clerk to those they waited on. People were irritated, of course. But people subsequently saw the difference that masks, social distancing, hand washing and sneeze guards made.
In the past year, I’ve had two allergy attacks, one when I prepared for the estate sale at my mother’s home, the other when I had those unexpected dog encounters here.
However, I haven’t gotten routine colds, bouts with bronchitis or the flu for years. I do get a flu shot and I try to get it early in the season.
If I went into a restaurant and saw staff who were visibly sick, I would probably leave, and I’m willing to bet other people would, too.
As with the High Hat, employers have to nip illnesses in the bud, not only because that’s smart management, but because sick staff can drive customers away.
There’s another factor: social media. Restaurants and food places are under spotlights like never before. All it takes is a Facebook post or a slam on Yelp and dozens of people know a bartender was sneezing.
This isn’t easy, at a time when restaurants are just beginning to find enough people to hire - and many aren’t there yet. But better to close a few days as High Hat did, than to join the ranks of those who are gone forever.
The James Beard Long List Arrives
The James Beard Foundation has come out with its long list of nominees from across the country in every aspect of dining.
You can see the entire list here. It’s fun reading, especially if you have travel plans in the future.
https://www.eater.com/23569653/james-beard-awards-2023-semifinalists-chefs-restaurants-jbfa
I was particularly happy to see two Zingerman’s connected people pop up: Ji Hye Kim, whose Ann Arbor restaurant, Miss Kim, is part of the Zingerman’s Community of Businesses, was nominated as Best Chef -Great Lakes.
So was Abra Berens, an alumni of Zingerman’s Deli, who is at Granor Farm in southwest Michigan. Abra is featured in Satisfaction Guaranteed and has written several wonderful cookbooks including Ruffsge and Grist.
In New Orleans, the wine and beverage program at Commander’s Palace is among a slew of nominees for the Crescent City. One sentimental favorite is Angelo Brocato, the venerable pastry and gelato shop, whose famous cannoli is pictured above. It was nominated in a new category for bakers.
Congratulations to the nominees, and we’ll see who takes home a medal later this year.
New Pastas From The Sporkful
I was tickled over the past couple of years to follow Dan Pashman’s journey through pasta creation on his podcast, The Sporkful.
His Mission ImPastable series began in 2021. Dan and his manufacturer, Sfoglini, scored a big success with their first venture, Cascatelli, which you can find in groceries, specialty shops and Trader Joe’s.
Now, Dan and Sfoglini are back with two more pasta shapes, quattrotini and vesuvio,
The former, pictured on the left, is served annually during Carnival season, in other words, right around now, in an area of Sicily. The original shape is four tubes connected by a four-sided rectangle. Sfoglini adjusted it to add ridges, which are meant to retain sauce.
Vesuvio, on the right, is meant to bring to mind Mount Vesuvius, the volcano. It is short, round, and anchored by a base that narrows down into a cone.
You can read more about both and order them on Sfoglini’s website. https://www.sfoglini.com/collections/cascatelli
Right now, you have to order them in sets of six, but a sampler pack is in the works. Meanwhile, if you’d like to display your love of pasta through fashion, a Cascatelli clutch purse is also for sale.
A Chef Finds Joy In Teaching His Boys
I first met Michael Gulotta in 2012 when he was chef de cuisine at August, one of New Orleans’ prettiest restaurants. We have spoken often as he branched into owning his own places, including MoPho and Maypop (his next venture, Tana, is under construction).
Through all that, Michael has also parented two sons, Ethan and Liam, who are on the autism spectrum. He’s often posted their photos on Instagram, and they look like good kids, despite his teasing nickname, “the little monsters.”
Raising the boys has been a challenge, but Michael discovered a breakthrough by giving them cooking lessons. He writes movingly and hilariously about their experiences in this essay for Food & Wine.
https://www.foodandwine.com/coming-home-7093859
I definitely want to read more, and I bet the Gulotta family story would inspire lots of parents and youngsters.
Keeping Up With CulinaryWoman
I had a blast last week speaking with members of the National Women’s Philanthropy of the Jewish Federation of North America. Thanks so much for hosting me - and welcome to NWP members who are now receiving the newsletter.
As always, if you purchased the book and would like a signed book plate, email me at culinarywoman at gmail dot com. You can follow the CulinaryWoman Facebook page and also find me on Instagram. My general account is at michelinemaynard and my New Orleans adventures are at micki_in_nola.
I’ll be back tomorrow with Red Beans and Advice for our paid subscribers. I’ll see everyone else next Sunday.