The CulinaryWoman Newsletter, 2/20/22

5 Things To Share About My Zingerman's Book

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Five Things To Share About My Zingerman’s Book

You know the feeling: for months, even years, you anticipate a milestone event, and suddenly, it’s about to arrive? That’s how I feel about the publication of Satisfaction Guaranteed. It’s happening on Tuesday — this Tuesday — and I’m so excited for you to read it and let me know what you think.

Some people, including CW readers Susan Kelley and Henry Harteveldt, have already received their copies, and I’ve sent off the bonus chapter they earned for placing orders before the official publication date (or pub date, in book speak).

There’s still time to order one from me, or from your favorite book seller. Just send me the proof of purchase and as long as it’s dated before Feb. 22, the bonus is yours.

As Henry did, please post a photo and tag me @mickimaynard on Twitter and @michelinemaynard on Instagram when your book arrives. I love book sightings, and I’ll RT you with gratitude.

In this week’s newsletter, I wanted to share five things that stood out to me from my experience in researching and writing the book.

The pandemic might have made it easier

When my literary agent Irene Goodman and my editor Kara Watson at Charles Scribner’s Sons negotiated the book contract, the pandemic was in its early weeks. As you’ll read, Michigan issued a shutdown order on March 15, 2020, the day we met on the phone with Ari Weinzweig to talk about the project.

Nobody knew at that time just how long the stay at home order would last, or the extensive changes in our lives that the pandemic would mean. I remarked to Irene that since Zingerman’s was based in Ann Arbor, I wouldn’t need to travel as much as I did for my previous books.

Luckily, I found that many people at Zingerman’s were readily available to talk to me, because they also had to stay put in Ann Arbor.

I wish all my books had received similar levels of cooperation, and I’m grateful that this one did.

The learning is perpetual

These days, Ari in particular is considered a font of information about many types of food. He’s written massive books like the Zingerman’s Guide To Good Eating and shorter ones, like the Zingerman’s Guide To Better Bacon.

But, he confessed in a conversation at Grand Valley State University that he grew up eating Kraft Macaroni and Cheese (what Canadians call “Kraft Dinner”), fish sticks and Cheetos. Everything else that he and everyone else at Zingerman’s became experts about had to be learned.

Steve Wallag-Muno, who created the cheerful look of Zingerman’s graphics, said the instruction began when he was one of the first employees to join the company.

“The minute I walked in, they thrust a three-ring binder at me, full of articles about prosciutto and olive oil” that he was expected to read, Steve told me. “I said, ‘You mean you can get oil from olives?’”

Now, if you go into the Deli, the Bakehouse or other businesses, employees can give you a full backgrounder on any of the items for sale. I’ve eavesdropped on conversations about cheese, and pepper, and different breads, and the staff members really know their stuff.

This train, faith will be rewarded

One of my first jobs in high school was at Jacobson’s Department Store in Ann Arbor (in college, I worked at that store and the one in East Lansing). I started as a gift wrapper and eventually graduated to the sales floor.

My training to become a saleswoman involved a couple of steps. First, I was bonded, which I haven’t been in any job since. Second, I was given an order book. I was shown how to fill in an order slip (we did this by hand back then), and separate the carbon copies, one for the store, one for the customer. Third, I was shown how to ring a credit sale.

Then, I was turned loose on the selling floor, and expected to pick up techniques from my co-workers. I didn’t work on commission, but many of them did, so not everyone was eager to see me hone my sales expertise.

The training at Zingerman’s is far, far more extensive. In the book, you can read a copy of the training passport that each employee receives. They vary by the type of job, from working in retail sales to making products like cheese or bread.

But in every situation, expectations are clearly stated — for both managers and employees — and there’s a sign-off process. Newcomers shadow experienced staffers. Even if someone is on their own without much time served, there’s always someone nearby that a customer can speak with if the newbie doesn’t have the answer.

Kelly Stafford helped save the Deli

At the beginning of the pandemic, restaurants couldn’t host guests for indoor dining. In Michigan, in fact, the restrictions on indoor dining came in several waves.

That affected not only the Roadhouse and Miss Kim, Zingerman’s two sitdown restaurants, but also the Deli, where customers traditionally waited in a long line to order their food. Sales were restricted to carry out and delivery.

For a time, the Deli became a nearly deserted place, managing partner Rick Strutz remembered. Then, one day, Kelly Stafford, the wife of then-Detroit Lions quarterback Matthew Stafford, called in a $20,000 order.

She specifically wanted to pay for sandwiches for front line workers. After promoting the offer on her social media, the stipend disappeared in two hours.

The next day, Kelly repeated the offer, meaning the Deli had $40,000 in business in two days. “It turned the corner,” Strutz says, and the Deli began to pick up in sales and spirit.

And Kelly’s husband Matthew? He’s done okay for himself, as you might know if you watched last Sunday’s Super Bowl.

The Zingerman’s fan base

Over the years, I’ve met numerous chefs and food community people who’ve come to Ann Arbor to give presentations at a Zingerman’s business. They range from my culinary fairy godmothers Dorie Greenspan and Ina Pinkney, to chefs like Alon Shaya and Rick Bayless, and writers like Molly Stevens and Stella Parks.

But until I worked on the book, I didn’t realize just how vast the Zingerman’s fan base is. The mail order catalog has 2 million names in its data base, and more than 100,000 people order something sent to them every year. .

The biggest asset to Zingerman’s has been the University of Michigan, whose alumni stretch around the world. I’ll be speaking to members of alumni clubs later this spring.

Every time a new student enrolls in Ann Arbor, there’s an opportunity for Zingerman’s to pick up a customer. (That’s my nephew Benjamin, now a doctor, with his Zingerman’s graduation cookie.)

Ari and Paul know all about that, because they were Michigan students, too.

There’s much more for you to discover in Satisfaction Guaranteed. Along with my virtual events, I hope I’ll be seeing you in Ann Arbor, like the dinner at the Roadhouse on Wednesday night (seats are still available) and the Deli’s 40th anniversary celebration on March 15.

This year, that date will be a much happier day than it was at the beginning of my book journey.

A New Variety Of Cascatelli

Listeners to The Sporkful podcast have been entertained the past few years with the story of Cascatelli. It’s the pasta variety that Sporkful creator Dan Pashman brought to life, through much research about different pasta shapes and how they held sauce.

Last year, Sfoglini introduced the original Cascatelli, which is made with organic wheat. Now, there’s a Cascatelli that’s gluten-free.

Last week, Banza, the maker of chickpea pasta, introduced a chickpea version of Cascatelli. It sold out in its first day on Banza’s website, but never fear, you’ll be able to buy it at Whole Foods.

Meanwhile, Trader Joe has been rolling out its own version of Cascatelli, as part of a new series of organic pasta varieties. Look for it in a cellophane bag with purple type (it hasn’t gotten to Ann Arbor yet, but our store knows I want some).

We Maynards are big fans of Cascatelli. I gave my brother a Cascatelli gift box for Christmas and he’s shared it with his sons. If you’ve tried it, be sure to post photos on your social media and tag the Sporkful. Like me, Dan is very generous about sharing pictures.

In Praise Of Restaurant Regulars

Even though Ann Arbor abounds with delicious places to eat, I tend to be a regular at a handful of them — the Roadhouse, of course, Knight’s Steakhouse (the original on Dexter), and several boba shops and bakeries around town.

I’m certainly open to trying other places, and happy when someone recommends them, but it is nice to go where you’re greeted by name and even hugged by the staff (masked, of course).

Punch has a wonderful series called The Regulars, looking at people who are loyal to their locals. In this article, Punch talked with Mike Cunningham, who eats about three times at week at New York’s Gramercy Tavern, a much-admired restaurant from Danny Meyer. (Danny was nice enough to provide a blurb for my book.)

Mike is one of those people that bartenders introduce to other patrons, especially if they have questions about the city. He knows it very well, because he likes to get around by bicycle.

Why did he become a regular there? “There's such a strong attention to detail in every facet of everything they do,” he says. “They never phone it in. I don't know if you can say that about a lot of other restaurants.”

I hope I get to say hello to him, the next time I’m in the city.

Keeping Up With CulinaryWoman

This will be a big week for me! The kickoff event for my book is on Tuesday, when I will be interviewed at 7 pm ET by Congresswoman Debbie Dingell as part of At Home With Literati, the wonderful Ann Arbor bookstore. You’re welcome to log in and if you’re a newsletter reader, please let me know.

There’s a full page of events on MichelineMaynard.com and more are being added all the time. I’ve done a series of interviews and excerpts will be running in the March issue of the Ann Arbor Observer and on The Takeout. I’ll share links as they come in.

You can contact me at culinarywoman at gmail dot com. Follow me on Instagram @michelinemaynard and on Twitter @culinarywoman. You can find the CulinaryWoman podcast on most podcast platforms (it is no longer on Spotify).

Mask mandates are coming off and restrictions are being lifted around the country, but please stay safe. When I lived in Japan, people routinely wore masks if their health was compromised, and that’s what I’m going to do until cases drop some more.

Have a great week, and see you next Sunday!